Aphrodisia by Faberge c1937

Launched in 1937, Aphrodisia by Parfums Fabergé was a perfume with a name as evocative as its fragrance. The choice of the name “Aphrodisia” is both intriguing and deliberate. Derived from the Greek word Aphrodisios, meaning “pertaining to Aphrodite,” it directly references the ancient Greek goddess of love, beauty, and sensuality. Pronounced "af-roh-DIZ-ee-uh", the word conjures an air of mystery and allure, invoking images of romance, passion, and seduction. The name reflects the perfume’s intent: to embody an irresistible charm that could enhance a woman’s femininity and sensuality.

The launch of Aphrodisia came during the late 1930s, a period of global transition and cultural complexity. This was the tail end of the Art Deco era, marked by bold, modernist design and a celebration of glamour. It was also a time of economic recovery following the Great Depression, with an increasing focus on escapism in fashion, cinema, and beauty. Hollywood’s Golden Age was at its peak, with icons like Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, and Joan Crawford influencing trends with their elegance and sophistication. Women's fashion embraced more structured silhouettes with flowing evening gowns, nipped waists, and intricate details, reflecting both refinement and a sense of drama.

The late 1930s also brought a growing liberation in how women expressed themselves. Perfume, an essential accessory of the time, was seen as a way to convey one’s personality and allure. A perfume named Aphrodisia would have resonated with women seeking a touch of daring sensuality in their everyday lives. It offered a promise of transformation—a scent that could evoke the allure of Aphrodite herself. The name would have been seen as bold and captivating, appealing to the aspirations of women who wanted to embrace their femininity with confidence and sophistication.

In scent, Aphrodisia was designed to embody the allure and complexity its name suggests. Its classification as a sparkling aldehydic, slightly spicy chypre floral fragrance for women would have made it both modern and sophisticated. Aldehydes, known for their effervescent, slightly metallic sparkle, lent a bright and lively opening. This was balanced by the richness of a chypre structure, characterized by earthy and woody notes such as oakmoss and patchouli, layered with a floral bouquet of jasmine, rose, or lily of the valley. The subtle spiciness added warmth and intrigue, creating a multifaceted fragrance that felt both luxurious and mysterious.

In the context of the perfume market in 1937, Aphrodisia would have aligned with some trends while still carving its niche. The 1920s and 1930s saw the rise of aldehydic fragrances, made famous by Chanel No. 5, which debuted in 1921. Chypres, such as Guerlain’s Mitsouko (1919) and Coty’s Chypre (1917), were also highly popular, celebrated for their elegance and depth. However, Aphrodisia differentiated itself with its slightly spicy twist and its provocative branding, which was daring for its time. The combination of sparkling aldehydes, opulent florals, and a sensual chypre base would have felt both familiar and thrillingly distinctive.

Women of the 1930s, accustomed to seeking beauty and grace even in challenging times, would have embraced Aphrodisia as an escape into a world of glamour and passion. The name, the scent, and the association with Aphrodite herself would have made it an irresistible choice for those seeking to enhance their mystique and express their divine, dangerous side. As a result, Aphrodisia by Parfums Fabergé stands as a testament to the power of perfume to capture the imagination and evoke timeless emotions.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sparkling aldehydic, slightly spicy chypre floral fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, orange blossom water, Italian bergamot, neroli, Italian lemon and fruity note
• Heart notes: carnation, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Zanzibar ylang-ylang and honey
• Base notes: Yugoslavian oak moss, vetiver, ambergris, civet and Tibetan musk

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Aphrodisia is like a bright, shimmering burst of sunlight. The aldehydes dazzle the senses with their effervescent sparkle, crisp and slightly metallic, as if tiny champagne bubbles are bursting in the air. They lend an airy, abstract brilliance that sharpens the anticipation for what lies beneath. The orange blossom water follows, soft and radiant, carrying its delicate floral sweetness tinged with a hint of fresh citrus. 

The Italian bergamot unfolds next, juicy and zesty, with a green, slightly bitter edge that contrasts beautifully with the honeyed warmth of neroli. As the scent deepens, Italian lemon adds a sharp, invigorating brightness, like the zest of a lemon freshly grated over a sunlit table. A faint, playful fruity nuance weaves through these notes, hinting at ripe, golden fruit warmed by the sun, adding a soft juiciness that rounds out the dazzling opening.

As the scent transitions to its heart, it blooms into a rich, floral tapestry. The spicy, peppery warmth of carnation emerges first, vibrant and lively, adding a layer of complexity to the florals. Jasmine follows closely, its opulent, velvety sweetness unfolding like a midnight garden in full bloom. The Bulgarian rose, deep and lush, adds a sensual richness with its classic, slightly honeyed aroma. 

The exotic allure of Zanzibar ylang-ylang brings a creamy, almost narcotic quality, blending banana-like fruitiness with floral waxiness that feels both luxurious and hypnotic. Honey, warm and golden, drapes itself over the florals like liquid sunlight, enriching the heart with a smooth, gourmand sweetness that is inviting and irresistible.

As the base notes unfurl, they anchor the composition with depth and sensuality. The Yugoslavian oakmoss is earthy and green, evoking the damp, shadowy stillness of a forest floor. It brings an unmistakable chypre elegance, its mossy character grounding the fragrance. Vetiver introduces a smoky, grassy sharpness, its dry, woody facets intertwining with the softness of the moss. 

Ambergris adds a touch of marine warmth, with a salty, sun-kissed depth that lingers subtly in the background. Civet, animalic and rich, lends a bold, musky sensuality that is both provocative and enveloping, while Tibetan musk smooths out the base with its powdery, creamy softness, leaving a trail that feels both intimate and timeless.

Together, the notes of Aphrodisia weave an evocative story. From the sparkling, radiant top notes to the lush, seductive florals at its heart, and finally the grounding, sensual warmth of the base, the fragrance unfolds like a journey through light and shadow, offering moments of brightness, passion, and mystery. It is a masterpiece that balances vivacity and depth, leaving an impression as unforgettable as the goddess for whom it was named.

Aphrodisia for Men:

Aphrodisia's popularity soared to such heights that it extended its allure to a men's counterpart, offering an intriguing duality of scents that catered to diverse tastes. While both versions share the same captivating essence, each embodies distinct characteristics that cater to the unique preferences of its intended audience.

In the men's rendition, Aphrodisia takes on an extra-dry persona, characterized by a refined subtlety that exudes sophistication and understated elegance. The fragrance unfolds with a crisp, austere quality, emphasizing clean lines and minimalist charm. Its composition may feature a judicious blend of aromatic notes, balanced to perfection to evoke a sense of timeless refinement and masculine allure.

Conversely, the women's iteration of Aphrodisia casts a spell of vibrant effervescence and full-bodied richness. Here, the fragrance blossoms into a symphony of sparkling brilliance, radiating with an irresistible charm and feminine allure. Its composition is likely imbued with luscious floral and fruity accents, interwoven with opulent oriental nuances, creating a sensorial experience that is as enchanting as it is captivating.

While both versions of Aphrodisia share a common heritage, they diverge in their olfactory profiles to cater to the nuanced preferences of their respective audiences. Whether reveling in the refined allure of the men's rendition or indulging in the vibrant splendor of the women's, each iteration of Aphrodisia invites wearers on a journey of sensory discovery, celebrating the timeless allure of love, beauty, and sophistication.

 

Bottles:

Parfum:

In its inaugural debut in 1937, Aphrodisia embraced the essence of luxury and sophistication not only through its exquisite fragrance but also through its meticulously crafted packaging. Housed within a crystal bottle, the first Parfum flacon exuded an aura of timeless elegance, its clear, pristine form serving as a testament to the purity and allure of the scent it contained.

Complementing the radiant brilliance of the crystal vessel was a translucent "prystal" Bakelite cap, meticulously crafted to adorn the bottle with a touch of opulent refinement. The translucent quality of the cap added a subtle allure, allowing glimpses of the fragrance within while enhancing the visual appeal of the ensemble.

Available in two sizes, these Parfum flacons catered to the preferences of discerning connoisseurs, offering a choice between a more compact option for convenience and a larger size for those who sought to indulge in the fragrance's luxurious allure.

From its radiant crystal bottle to its translucent Bakelite cap, every detail of Aphrodisia's packaging reflected the brand's commitment to uncompromising quality and timeless sophistication. This exquisite presentation served as a fitting prelude to the olfactory journey that awaited within, inviting wearers to embark on a sensory exploration of elegance, beauty, and allure.

Daily News, 1937:

"Aphrodisia, a new and alluring perfume from Faberge, it is packed in a gold box with emerald green satin lining. The slender modern crystal vial that contains the haunting perfume fits readily into any sophisticated handbag. Priced at $2 an $5."

Hartford Courant, 1938:

"Walter Winchell wrote "There's a new perfume called Aphrodisia and by golly it is." This new exciting perfume by Faberge of Paris, is being introduced by Dpris Ellis, 56 Trumbull St (opposite the Telephone Company) to local sophisticates who enjoy a blend of "the exotic" and "the sweet." Aphrodisia cologne is priced at $1.50 upward and the perfume at $2 upward - both in non-breakable prystal-top bottles."

The Indianapolis Star, 1938:

"Our pet-perfume by Faberge, Parisian jeweler to the Russian court, is now available in miniature at $1.25 (one dram). News indeed are these precious prystal-topped bottles..exact replicas of the regular $2 perfume and the $1.50 cologne whose worldly and provocative fragrance has altogether disarmed more people than just us. Ask for it, unabashed, by its naughty name - Aphrodisia."

In 1939, Parfums Faberge introduced a convenient and stylish way to enjoy the enchanting fragrance of Aphrodisia with the unveiling of a 1.5 dram sized vial. This compact vial, perfectly sized for portability, was designed with the modern woman in mind, offering a discreet and elegant solution for on-the-go fragrance application. Its petite dimensions made it ideal for slipping into a purse or clutch, ensuring that the allure of Aphrodisia was always within reach.

What set this vial apart was its ingenious design, featuring a user-friendly mechanism that allowed for precise and controlled application of the fragrance. With just a tap of the finger to the top of the bottle, a single drop of the intoxicating scent was released, ensuring that each application was a delicate and measured experience.

To further enhance the vial's appeal, Parfums Faberge offered it in three distinct leather slip cases, each tailored to suit different occasions and personal styles. For daytime indulgence, there were options of tailored kid skin in Fireman's Flame or Aphrodisia Green, exuding a sense of timeless sophistication and understated elegance. As the day transitioned into late afternoon, black suede with gold kid provided a touch of refinement and luxury, perfectly complementing the allure of Aphrodisia. And for evening affairs, white with gold kid exuded an air of opulence and glamour, ensuring that the wearer made a statement wherever she went.

With its combination of practicality, elegance, and versatility, the 1.5 dram leak-proof vial became an indispensable accessory for the modern woman, allowing her to carry the essence of Aphrodisia with her throughout her day and into the night, wherever her adventures may lead.

Cologne:

In the early days of Aphrodisia's journey, the cologne bottles were distinguished by their classic cylindrical design, featuring straight sides that exuded an understated elegance. Available in a range of sizes to suit different preferences and needs, these bottles came in 2 oz, 4 oz, and 8 oz capacities, catering to both casual users and aficionados alike.

What set these cologne bottles apart was their distinctive translucent greenish-yellow Bakelite/Catalin prystal screw caps, adding a touch of vintage charm to the ensemble. The use of Bakelite/Catalin, renowned for its durability and aesthetic appeal, elevated the bottles' design, imbuing them with a sense of timeless sophistication.

As affirmed by a 1937 advertisement, these caps were indeed "prystal," a term that highlighted their unique translucent quality and exquisite craftsmanship. Interestingly, enthusiasts of Aphrodisia may have noticed a distinctive scent emanating from the caps when exposed to heat. This characteristic aroma, reminiscent of formaldehyde, confirms that it is Bakelite and serves as a subtle reminder of the bottles' heritage and craftsmanship, adding to their allure and mystique.

Over the years, these early cologne bottles have become cherished collectibles, treasured by aficionados and connoisseurs for their timeless design and nostalgic charm. Each bottle stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Aphrodisia, capturing the essence of a bygone era while continuing to enchant and captivate with its timeless allure.

 

 

Ancillary Products:

In addition to its captivating fragrances, Aphrodisia expanded its allure with a range of luxurious bath and body products, catering to every aspect of the sensory experience. Introduced in 1938, the dusting powder became an instant favorite among devotees of the fragrance, offering a lavish way to indulge in its intoxicating scent while leaving the skin feeling velvety soft and delicately perfumed.

Building upon the success of the dusting powder, Parfums Faberge unveiled the Body Duster in 1939, a sophisticated accessory that elevated the application of powder to an art form. Paired with the luxurious powder, the Body Duster added a touch of elegance to the grooming routine, allowing users to envelop themselves in a cloud of fragrant allure with every graceful sweep.

For those seeking a more indulgent bathing experience, Aphrodisia introduced the Bath Oil Extraordinaire, also in 1939. This opulent formulation combined the nourishing benefits of bath oil with the alluring scent of Aphrodisia, transforming the ordinary bath into a decadent ritual of relaxation and pampering. Infused with the signature fragrance, the Bath Oil Extraordinaire enveloped the senses in a veil of sensual luxury, leaving the skin feeling silky smooth and delicately scented.

With its range of bath and body products, Aphrodisia offered devotees of the fragrance an immersive olfactory experience that extended beyond the application of perfume or cologne. Each product was meticulously crafted to capture the essence of Aphrodisia, allowing users to indulge in its timeless allure while luxuriating in the comforts of their own home.

Daily News, 1939:

"Umm-mm! What is more luxurious than a refreshing tub or shower rinse-off in humidity laden warm weather? Nothing - except, as a final luxury touch to dust your body from tip to toe with a scented film of powder which combines the heavenly fragrances of well blended perfumes, eau de colognes and bath essences. The dainty little body brusher the pretty model in the picture is holding in her hands has a handle of transparent "prystal" crystal which, when filled with either "Aphrodisia" or "Woodhue" dusting powder, sifts down as you dust your skin through a top knot of fluffy goat's hair - SO soft! Because of the conveniently sized handle, which unscrew for refilling, you'll be able to reach your back without perspiratory effort - something that should please all of us would-be contortionists! So the brush will keep spotlessly clean and will not spot powder, the famous French house which markets this product has set it upright in a crystal support inside a transparent cylindrical canopy. With your purchase of this adorable, budget-priced brush and container you're given a powder refill which, we're told, is enough powder to last even the most lavish of us "dusters" a month. The body brusher referred to above is Faberge's Body Duster."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Aphrodisia's journey took an unexpected turn in 1989 when Chesebrough-Pond's acquired Parfums Faberge, leading to the discontinuation of the beloved fragrance. This marked the end of an era for Aphrodisia, as it transitioned from the hands of one esteemed house to another, leaving behind a legacy of timeless allure and sophistication.

However, even before this pivotal moment, Aphrodisia experienced a shift in its product lineup. Both the Perfume Purser and the Esprit de Parfum, cherished by enthusiasts for their unique charm and allure, were discontinued in 1966. This decision marked the end of an era for these beloved products, leaving behind fond memories and a sense of nostalgia among devoted fans of the fragrance.

Despite the discontinuation of these iconic offerings, the spirit of Aphrodisia continued to captivate hearts and minds, leaving an indelible mark on the world of perfumery. Though its journey may have taken unexpected turns along the way, Aphrodisia's timeless allure endures as a testament to the enduring legacy of Parfums Faberge and the enduring power of fragrance to evoke emotion and capture the imagination.